Life

I wake up to the sound of my alarm. It's an early August morning and it is 6am. Normally I wouldn't even wake up for school at this time but this was different. There was an unusual summer swell coming in this morning. I ride my bike down to first and boards to check the waves. It's chest to head high and clean and the sunrise is almost just as good. The next few hours is just barrels after barrels and some slashes at the lip. All of the First Street Crew was out and we all were super amped throughout the entire session. I get out at 10 change into my work boardies and head to work. The waterpark was busy and there were tons of people on the slides all day long. I half lifeguarded and half watched the waves at 7th street from the top of Serp. The waves died down as the day went on as many summer swells do. I was blessed that I paddled out as early as I did this morning. I got off work at 6, went home, threw on my shorts and trainers, and went on a run. I hyped over the season ahead while I strided over Longport Bridge and enjoyed the cool early evening breeze. I cut through the Gardens and headed right back to first street beach. As I got there I popped off my shoes, darted toward the ocean, and went for a dip. It was amazing to think about how calm the warm ocean was now, as it had been so big earlier in the day. I got out and watched the sunset on the beach while I sat on the jetty. After a quick shower and dinner I was getting calls from all of my friends who were stoked over a party that night. The night was very similar to many others. A bunch of brothers with a similar love for the sea, having a great time just living life. 

Days like this blend together each summer and hold a special place in my heart. They make me who I am and lead me toward the life I want to live. They keep me working hard and set me free.